Friday 8 December 2017

evening in peggy's cove


"So Soon?" you ask. Well, this Peggy's Cove trip was a rare treat for us so of course I took scads of photographs. If I don't post them soon, they'll fall into the abyss of Never Was. So here we are again.

My last post watched the sun go down at the famous lighthouse. My friend, Connie, and I walked the short road down alongside the sheltered inlet.

We passed the same lobster shack seen at the beginning of my last post,
here with a boat decked out in netting and buoys. 

Coming round the front of this same building, lobster traps in a row,
we can see the tide is a bit lower than when we arrived about an hour earlier,
the natural breakwater at the front of the cove dark-rimmed to show the water line.

On the other side of the street are a few commercial spots now closed.

This one, with its rolled up awning and areas for sitting, seems to be a café of sorts.

This newer style of building seems to be a semi-detached,
perched on rock with a mat of grass that looks like a bad toupée. 

 
the right side of that same building with the wild rose hips adorning the front view

looking back from whence we came as the road rises

a little further along we rise to an uninhabited stretch

its rocky barrens still beautiful in the evening light

another otherworldly stretch of rock covered in what may be low laying blueberry bushes

Not much of a biologist, I do know that these fern-like plants that turn this lovely orangey gold
are bracken.

Well, maybe this thick matting of scrub are not blueberries after all.
(After posting this earlier today, I received a message from my dear Saskatchewan friend, formerly a P.E.I girl, who advised me that this is most likely the Northern Bayberry.  Deer and salt resistant, growing in poor but well-drained soils- even sand- they provide their own nitrogen/fertilizer. The leaves provide a pleasant scent, often used in candles, though repellent to insects. Thanks Jane!)

Turning once again from this new vantage to catch the waning light over Peggy's Cove.

The lights are on at the Sou'Wester Gift shop and restaurant.
Is that the peak of the light house I see at the left end of the gift shop roof?

The sky is doing its best baroque/William Turner homage.
I think it was Oscar Wilde who said that we relate more to an image that is pre-identified for us by an artist. I think this must be true for most concepts in life, that we hinge on something that we once heard in the past. If only we could, as a species, build on that.

Across the road is the once home, now gallery of William de Garthe, a Finnish born artist who, as a young man in 1930, left his job and art training in Montreal on a quest for "the most beautiful place on earth". Taking the train to Halifax to catch a boat for Brazil where an aunt lived, he was struck by the rugged beauty of the Atlantic coast, reminding him of the island home he grew up in on the Swedish border.
Painting commercially, then resuming fine art,
it wasn't until the early 1960's that de Garthe learned to sculpt.

In the late 1970's de Garthe decided to carve  "a lasting monument to Nova Scotia fishermen".
On a 100 foot granite outcropping behind his home, the 10 year project was about 80% completed when he died in 1983.

At the far left end, St. Elmo, shelters the fishermen, women and children of the sea.

By way of interest, St. Elmo was originally Saint Erasmus, who may have become the patron of sailors because he is said to have continued preaching even after a thunderbolt struck the ground beside him. This prompted sailors, who were in danger from sudden storms and lightning, to claim his prayers. The electrical discharges at the mastheads of ships were read as a sign of his protection and came to be called "St. Elmo's Fire."

Another point of interest: besides being the guardian of all mariners, St. Elmo is the patron saint of children with colic,
abdominal pain,
intestinal ailments and diseases,
cramps and the pain of women in labour,
as well as cattle pests. 

More people of the sea memorialized by William de Garthe.

Here is a plaque erected by his widow. It reads:

FISHERMEN'S MONUMENT
by William E. DeGarthe, artist and sculptor
This work of art is a lasting memorial to the gallant men of
Peggy's Cove, Nova Scotia, whoharvest our oceas. The monument
depicts from left to right: fisherman's family; Peggy of the Cove;
Fishermen at work.
This monument was donated to the province of Nova Scotia by
Mrs.P. Agnes deGarthe in 1984 in accordance with the wishes of
her late husband, William E. DeGarthe.

We finally leave lovely Peggy's Cove but not without one more stop to capture the sun's fading glow over a group of fishing piers in another inlet on St. Margaret's Bay.

Another quintessential fishing dock scene

And so, good night.

We were quite buzzed from this mini holiday and touched down at home long enough to feed the cats before heading out to a Mediterranean supper in Wolfville to polish off our Saturday night. 
We haven't had so much fun for a long time. Did I mention we had a 1940's soundtrack on the last evening of our use of a brand new car, leased for our day out, with Sirius radio.
What a hoot to travel in style.

hope you got a sense of the magic
I hope, too, that you are finding it in your own life.

peace and lovingkindness




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